To connect at least two computers with a single wireless network bridge, first and foremost, you have to install each computer with an adapter. After this, run CAT5 cables to connect all of them to a switch or a hub. Your chosen computer to use with bridging will come with two kinds of inserted adapters in its mainboard: one regular LAN adapter, which should already be inside, and one wireless network adapter, which will help make a connection to your wireless access point (WAP).
After installing and connecting these network adapters, use your intended bridging computer to open the Control Panel and then go to Network Connections. Keep in mind that to create your wireless network bridge, a minimum of two connections will be needed for various processes. Such processes would be internet sharing (ICS) and internet firewall (ICF).
Once you are inside the folder of Network Connections, you should see a ton of connections. Every connection is actually every one of the network cards: one is for the wireless card, while the other is for the wired card. Open your wireless adapter’s connection and visit the details panel. This should show that it works perfectly. Now, it would be advisable to check your Ethernet connection, too; this should work perfectly, too. Now you simply have to click on both of these connections simultaneously – which can be done by selecting every connection while holding the Ctrl key – and then right-click on any connection to select the submenu of Bridge Connections. After configuring this bridge connection, a window to Network Connection should be seen.
ICF and ICS
ICF and ICS might be needed in several cases. Regardless of the reason, you will require a third adapter first. So, if you do need ICF or ICS, you will need to go to a local store for computer hardware to get a brand new adapter card. But even if you have three adapters, this task would be quite tricky. Making a bridge in this manner would require you to bridge before actually enabling a single one of them.
You could always make use of the setup wizard when it comes to such tasks; however, the overall order would be imperative. You first need to use its setup wizard in order to make a bridge before enabling ICF or ICS. The wizard will then search for an online connection and attempt to configure this. Lastly, if you want, you can bridge several more network cards, which are connected onto the network.
By: Alex D Smith
Posts Tagged ‘Wireless Access Point’
Wireless Network Installation In Larger Up Scale Homes
December 18th, 2009
A regular two story single family homes wireless installation usually only will require one wireless router placed centrally in the home. The newer trend that Schaumuburg Computer Repair faces is the new mega tear down homes that are all brick and have three floors with over 4,000 square feet. The question is how do I give the customer the best wireless coverage for the least price.
Standards Tutorial: 802.11b is old don’t use it. 802.11g runs at a reported 54mbps but actual throughput is 22 mbps, it has greater range than 802.11a. 802.11a is mostly used in areas where there are many wireless access points already such as business offices. Also 802.11a network can have more co-located wireless access points because 802.11a has 8 non-overlapping channels while 802.11g has only 3. 802.11n is only a draft version at this point so do not purchase draft n products. I do recommend purchasing 802.11g wireless access point with MIMO (Multi-in Multi out) technology. These access points are configured with two radios, which allow them to send and receive at the same time.
Phase one: Coverage Area – Defining coverage area for the home is very important because defining areas to blanket can effect the customers cost. We have many customers that do a lot of work in detached garages and basements but many people use wireless in only one room. So the rule of thumb is the more areas the need wireless coverage the higher the price for the customer.
Phase two: Site Survey – Perform a site survey to find out what other wireless networks are in the area. This is very important because in might impact whether you install a 802.11g wireless network or a 802.11a wireless network. If we perform a site survey and find many 802.11g wireless networks on varies channels it might be better to install a 802.11a wireless network which runs on a different frequency. Knowing what channels other networks are running on is very important because each one of your wireless access points will need to run on a different channel. 802.11g standards have only three non-overlapping channels, which are 1,6 and 11 while 802.11a has eight non-overlapping channels. The rule of thumb to follow is that 802.11g is subject to more interference but has greater range than 802.11a.
Phase threee: Distibution system – Now you need to decide how you’re going to distribute your wireless network throughout the home. A wireless access point acts a wireless wire so you will still find a method to get a network connection to that wireless access point. You have three options: running network cables throughout the house (The worst option), setting up power line Ethernet, or setting wireless repeaters or bridges. Running network cables is your last option because it requires drilling and time, which equals more cost. Power line Ethernet is great because it turns your power outlets into network cables. All you have two do is plug in one power line adapter by your internet connected wireless router and then plug in adapters throughout the house where you need wireless access points plugged in. Then your final option is to set up wireless repeaters to which will extend your original signal through out your house.
Phase four: Access point Placement – Your first access points should be in the most central parts of the home with supplemental wireless access points placed in hard to reach areas. Keep the wireless access points away from large metal objects and if the wireless access point can’t be placed in a central location use directional antennas to point the wireless signal internally instead of outside.
Phase five: Wireless access point Configuration – Your site survey will have revealed that 99% of the population purchases a wireless access point from best buy plugs it in and leaves all the defaults. So that means that their SSID is linksys and the wireless router / access point are on channel 6. Our larger home wireless network will need two to three wireless access points so we will configure our first two wireless access points on channels 1 and 11. If a third one is needed then you can use channel 6; just make sure user connections aren’t dropped after the wireless clients are configured. Next you will want to name your wireless network (SSID). Choose a obscure name like house, a color or some thing that can’t link the network with the family. The reason for that many people have their SSID as there last name and the there network key the same or a pet or child’s name. The more hacker knows about the family the easier it will be to hack the network
Phase 6: Security – You will want to use AES encryption with WPA2 handling for the majority of wireless networks. If your clients are going to be gaming over the wireless network you could consider using WEP 128 because on older wireless access points AES encryption is processor intensive. The myth is that wireless encryption can be hacked in five minutes which is true if you have enough network packets to crack. The whole process is collecting the packets then cracking those packets, the collection of those packets could take weeks if not months. Then after the packets are collected the encryption has to be cracked.
By: Eric Meyer
Wired Network Working into Wireless Access Points
December 13th, 2009
Let’s dive into something a little more complex. What if you have a wired network already, and you’re quite happy with the way it performs — you see no point in dismantling it and making it wireless when it works fine as it is. You’ve got this laptop, though, that you’d really like to use wirelessly. Basically, what you want to do is make a wireless connection to a wired network. This is often referred to as a network bridge.
As luck would have it, there’s a very easy way to do exactly what you want. It’s called a wireless access point.
Partly Wireless
If you’ve got a lot of computers (on an office network, for example) and you can’t switch them all over to wireless networking at once, installing a wireless router is a good way of doing it bit-by-bit. Once the router is part of the network, you could just remove one network wire per day or per week, replacing it with a wireless connection.
Hardware and Software Requirements
There are two kinds of wireless access points: software and hardware ones. Wireless access point software runs on one of the computers on the wired network, and lets wireless devices connect to the network through that computer (the computer must obviously be wireless-enabled).
You can get wireless access software easily — doing a web search will give you plenty of choices. Look for one that’s open source, as you will be able to download it straightaway for free without breaking any laws. Unfortunately, though, the wireless devices will only be connected to the network while the computer in question is turned on and connected itself.
Hardware access points, on the other hand, are standalone devices that can be plugged in anywhere on the network — you can either buy a dedicated access point, or convert an old computer to act as one and do nothing else. They connect to the wired network just as a normal computer would, except that they offer access to the network to any wireless receivers within range.
You can leave hardware access points connected to your network and turned on all the time, if you want. An advantage of dedicated devices is that they generally have a greater range, letting you use your wireless devices further away from the access point than you could with a software access point. Dedicated devices can be expensive, though — prices are roughly similar to wireless routers.
How Wireless Access Points Work
An access point sends requests for data on behalf of the wireless devices connected to it. In this way, it works a lot like a wireless router: basically, a wireless access point is to a wired LAN as a wireless router is to the Internet. The difference, though, is that the devices connected through an access point actually become part of the LAN — other computers on the LAN won’t distinguish between the wired computers and the wireless ones.
This is powerful, as it gives you the capability to dynamically extend your wired LAN, without wires. In theory, there shouldn’t be anything you can currently do over your wired network that you won’t be able to do over the wireless extension to it.
Configuring a Wireless Access Point
You can usually configure a wireless access point as easily as plugging it into a connection to your network, using the cable that should be included. Your network should see the access point and give it a networking (IP) address automatically. If you need to do any more configuration on your access point — for example, turning on wireless encryption — then you’ll need to open your access point’s settings.
You can do this by going to the router’s IP address in your web browser. If you’re not sure how to do this, refer to your access point’s manual (you might have better luck reading the online version, which will be updated with the latest problems people are having). While you’re playing with your access point’s settings, you might find it worth disabling DHCP (dynamic network addressing) and giving your access point a static address instead. This helps to keep your wired network more stable.
By: Tony Fitz
